Western outfits aren’t cut out for Indians: Tahiliani

Amid the literary ambience of the 17th Jaipur Literature Festival (JLF), the Durbar Hall got a taste of style and substance as designer Tarun Tahiliani shared his journey in a captivating conversation with Shivani Sibal on the second day of the festival.

Tahiliani reminisced about India emerging from its socialist era post-partition. The maharajas, erstwhile patrons of exquisite crafts, jewellery, and opulent luxury, had lost their privy purses. Influenced by the post-emergency atmosphere, the government had steered fashion towards modesty and low-key aesthetics. Steep tax rates reached up to 98%. The 80s brought transformative events like the Asian Games and the advent of colour television. Tahiliani’s return from the States coincided with this period of change, marked by the popularity of American soap operas like The Bold and the Beautiful.

Tahiliani noted the societal shift in India as it moved away from traditional textiles. The transition from sarees to Western clothing for men and the shift from tailors crafting cholis to a more diverse fashion landscape were significant changes. Tahiliani emphasised the regional diversity in draping fabrics, noting that even wearing a saree or a dhoti could reveal one’s regional identity. 

“I keep saying that 200 years ago if I landed off a parachute, I would know what part of the country I was in just by the way people drape their fabric on their body. So, even if they wore white, the Bengalis would wear their saree differently from a Maharashtrian. And even men in their dhotis, lungis, safas, turbans, it was just fabric,” he said.

A fashion that induces crisis in women 

On why women have never really adopted Western fashion, he expressed gracefully, “Because they look much better in Indian clothes but also most Western fashion isn’t relevant here. It’s made, as we know, for cold climates. There’s nothing in the Western winter wardrobe that you can wear. It’s not cut for the Indian body structures,” he insisted.

Today, the challenge lies in magazines promoting a derivative fashion that induces a crisis in women, shifting them from being comfortable in their Indian identity to conforming to a Western construct. The rise of Western-style dresses in urban India is notable, replacing the traditional Indian attire for dinner outings. “When you would earlier go out in Delhi, everyone wore Indian clothes for dinner. And now, they’re all stuffed into these dresses. I don’t know where they come from. You look amazing in a simple drape,” he said. The versatility of the saree is underscored — three women can wear the same saree yet look distinct due to body contours and styling freedom.

Younger Indians prefer practical clothing

The new trend involves influencers asking for free clothes based on their follower count. Unfortunately, this narrative distorts perceptions, pushing for bold and graphic displays, contrary to the finesse inherent in luxury

Tarun Tahiliani

The lifestyle shift is evident, with younger generations adopting more practical clothing choices. The concept of the saree evolves, incorporating Indian drapes as a beautiful expression. The changing role of women in society is mirrored in fashion trends, with brides reconsidering heavy lehengas for more comfortable options. He shared, “It’s changing fast, as women are educated and calm and good in their skin, they’ve less of a need to project.”

“Renowned designer Rohit Khosla, a mentor who studied abroad and worked with Versace, imparted valuable lessons to us. Learning from mistakes, we struggled with fitting issues when women tried clothes over their attire at exhibition-cum-sales,” Tahiliani shared. “The challenge extended to handling traditional fabrics like Indian chanderi. Technological advancements have improved fit, but government support for weavers is crucial for further upgrades. Weavers, opting for viscose over silk, sustain their business by making textiles more affordable. While Chinese duplicates flood the market, the essence lies in the fit— Western fabrics set a standard difficult to surpass,” he added.

‘Social media distorts perceptions’

The renowned designer emphasized that the tragedy today is the impact of social media, trapping individuals in a curated projection of themselves. Perpetuating this myth, Bollywood often borrows clothes for airport walks to cater to the paparazzi. “The new trend involves influencers asking for free clothes based on their follower count. Unfortunately, this narrative distorts perceptions, pushing for bold and graphic displays, contrary to the finesse inherent in luxury,” he laughed.